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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.